• A black '69 124 Spider AS

Posted: **Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:56 pm**

RCSquadraCorse wrote:Thanks Dave

Ok, I need assistance... as always...
Can someone pretty please help me to identify some stuff and give me the right procedure to disconnect something?
First of all, in the picture below, I don't understand what the manual says about that cable. Is it enough to unscrew the two bolts/screws and remove the cable?

Then, what about the throttle mechanism? The manual talks about the one positioned over the engine, not about this one, and I don't know where do I have to disconnect it. I've signed with the red arrows what I think I should remove, is it correct?

And what about this hose? It goes under the intake manifold but I can't see where it comes from.

And what is this? I can't see anything connected to it. It's located just under the MC.

Last question, these three cables that go under the intake manifold are connected with a big plastic connector inside the left fender. Is it ok to disconnect all of them from that connector or it's preferable to remove each of them from the engine (I don't know what are they for though).

Sorry for all these questions but I'm stuck with all these cables, hoses and wires... I can't even find a proper manual for my AS... so, I'm going mad because I'm waisting a load of precious time...
Please be patience, I've never pulled an engine and I'd like to learn...
Thanks in advace to whoever will take some time to answer.

Photo 1 the answer is yes, you need to unscrew both screws to remove the choke cable
The outer screw holds the cable shield and the inner screw ( one closest to the cam box) holds the actual choke cable wire.

Photo 2 don't remove the wire at the left most arrow. Disconnect the shaft via the bolt attached to the bracket on the cam housing and then undo the clip on the ball connection either at the carb or at the shaft. The shaft will then slide out of the firewall. Don't loose the spring or the cam bracket and bushings ( don't ask how I know this)

Photo 3 is the fuel supply hose from the gas tank to the fuel pump

Photo 4 is the top of the steering box, screw with nut is the adjustment . Small square topped screw/plug to the near side (bottom of the photo) is the oil fill hole

Photo 5 is the wire group to the starter - red wire to the solenoid, brown wire goes to pin 30 on the ignition switch and the small black wire goes to fuse 1. Both the brown and black wire are always hot as they are direct connect to the battery via the big thick wire from the battery to the starter. - Disconnect the battery and you should be OK

Posted: **Tue Aug 06, 2013 8:16 pm**

Thanks a lot for your reply, I do really appreciate it!
In the latest days I discovered by myself some of that stuff I was asking for but I'm still stuck with the throttle linkage.
Tomorrow morning I will take a better look at it and I hope to finally disconnect the whole thing.
You said "Disconnect the shaft via the bolt attached to the bracket on the cam housing" and then "Don't loose the spring or the cam bracket and bushings". This confuses me a bit, since there is only one bolt on that bracket and it's the one that connects the bracket to the cam housing (as seen in the pictures). Is that one the bolt I need to remove?
Many thanks again for your tips and info!

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:07 pm**

Still in needing of some advices about that throttle linkage... Where are all the AS owners?!

I won't receive my book till Saturday because my brother have some more work to do in Milan...
Also, it's already 3 days that I'm fighting and scrapping my hands with this d**n bolt that connects the exhaust to the header!!! No socket or wrench is fitting in that tight space and vice grip pliers are only ruining the bolt! How can I unscrew that bolt?!? The other 3 bolts came out with no big issues (using a socket) but this one... boy how it's pissing me off!

Of course I'm soaking it in WD40 multiple times every days! HEEEEEELP!!!

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 4:12 pm**

in this case I would grind a socket or a key, in order to reduce the thickness of the tool and make it usable there.
It might be a sacrifice, but you don't need to do it to a high quality tool.
Is it clear ?
good luck !

Posted: **Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:47 pm**

Have a AS wont matter on a exhaust nut that frozen on

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:30 am**

westy64 wrote:in this case I would grind a socket or a key, in order to reduce the thickness of the tool and make it usable there.
It might be a sacrifice, but you don't need to do it to a high quality tool.
Is it clear ?
good luck !

Yup, it's all clear! I just have to find a wrench to trash and that hopefully won't brake under stress after the grinding!
Will try this later.

fiat218 wrote:Have a AS wont matter on a exhaust nut that frozen on

Of course you didn't read the first sentence, did you?
"Still in needing of some advices about that throttle linkage... "

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2013 8:56 am**

When you disconnect the bolt at the cam housing, that end of the linkage has a set of bushings that hold the shaft in the bracket and allow it to rotate freely. If you loose the bushings out of the bracket, the linkage doesn't work/work properly. Attached to the linkage on the opposite end is a spring that keeps the linkage pressed against the afore mentioned bracket and bushing.

You will also need to disconnect one of the ball sockets that attach the linkage to the carb.
R/

Posted: **Thu Aug 08, 2013 1:42 pm**

seabeelt wrote:When you disconnect the bolt at the cam housing, that end of the linkage has a set of bushings that hold the shaft in the bracket and allow it to rotate freely. If you loose the bushings out of the bracket, the linkage doesn't work/work properly. Attached to the linkage on the opposite end is a spring that keeps the linkage pressed against the afore mentioned bracket and bushing.

You will also need to disconnect one of the ball sockets that attach the linkage to the carb.
R/

So, you're telling me that basically if I disconnect the bracket the whole linkage won't work anymore?
I'm sorry if I sound rather dumb but I still can't understand how to remove the long rod that basically won't let me remove the engine because it's just over the air manifold...
So I'm attaching the images of ALL the links that make the whole throttle assembly.
If it's possible for you to tell me which number I have to undo/disconnect it would be amazing!
Now it should be really simple to explain (at least I hope so):

Thanks for your patience...

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2013 12:35 am**

it been a long time since i've mess with this style linkage. As i recall, remove bolt #2, slide the sleeve off #3 to remove the ball joint. you may have to slide the sleeve off on #4 as well. once the long rod is free, it will just pull out of the firewall. #5 is a linkage adjustment. dont think you have to mess with that.

Posted: **Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:31 am**

Cheers man! I hope that with your procedure the rod will finally slide out of the spring on the firewall with no issues!
Will try this later and report back if everything went smoothly

Posted: **Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:44 pm**

Thanks again azruss for your advices! Throttle rod is now out and the engine should be finally free.
Now working on removing the drive shaft and the gearshift lever. That small teflon ring under the lever is driving me crazy, 1 hour and a half and I had to stop for a beer because I can't get the screwdrivers between the two parts. The rubber boot takes too much space and I can't remove the center console because all the screws a part from one are almost rotten and they simply won't turn or turn freely. Going to cut them off, hopefully without damaging the black vinyl.
Will report back soon with more progress.

Posted: **Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:19 pm**

Finally removed the gearshift lever. It was really driving me crazy...
However, engine and tranny are almost ready to be pulled. I have some questions tho (strange, uh?!

):
1- to remove the driveshaft from the transmission only, is it enough to undo the 3 bolts in front of that big black rubber bushing and then slide the shaft out of the tranny by pulling it backwards or do I have to remove also the rubber bushing?
2- when removing the tranny support is it better to put a jack under the case? I don't know if there will be too much stress on the bolts and I'm afraid to snap something...
3- when pulling engine and tranny together, where do I have to put the chains/tie-down straps and do I have to pay attention to something in particular (gearshift/tranny clearance/rotate something etc)?

As always, sorry if these sound like silly questions but I don't want to do any damage...
Thanks in advance to whoever will be kind enough to answer!

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:45 pm**

I'm really fed up of bolts that won't come off... tried to undo the drive shaft bolts on the transmission side with no luck. I tried with brutal force and long lever but the shaft is rotating a little bit and I don't want to snap anything inside the transmission (read gear)... the bolts on the black rubber thinghy are uber tightened as well. I hope that more WD40 will do the job...

A part from the questions asked before (post above), can someone please enlighten me if I have to remove the steering cross member to remove engine and trasmission together? And is it possible that the AS models don't have the reverse switch? There is no switch on the gearbox nor white tail light, so I suppose that I'm right... yes, no?

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:23 pm**

I have a back up light on mine

Posted: **Tue Aug 13, 2013 1:23 pm**

RCSquadraCorse wrote:I'm really fed up of bolts that won't come off... tried to undo the drive shaft bolts on the transmission side with no luck. I tried with brutal force and long lever but the shaft is rotating a little bit and I don't want to snap anything inside the transmission (read gear)... the bolts on the black rubber thinghy are uber tightened as well. I hope that more WD40 will do the job...

And is it possible that the AS models don't have the reverse switch? There is no switch on the gearbox nor white tail light, so I suppose that I'm right... yes, no?

1. Try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid as a penetrating oil.

See: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... er=1433151

2. My CS1 has a reverse switch in the gearbox. I can't say much for the AS cars.

A black '69 124 Spider AS

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Re: A black '69 124 Spider AS

Re: A black '69 124 Spider AS

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Re: A black '69 124 Spider AS

Re: A black '69 124 Spider AS

Re: A black '69 124 Spider AS