Performance electric fan

[kensmith]

I am thinking of replacing the stock radiator fan with a slim Spal puller fan for better cooling. I was wondering if any have done this mod to a stock setup. I have a 1978 1.8L with stock radiator. Looks like I could get a 12" or 14" puller in there. Anyone done the mod? Suggestions? Thanks

[EddieJames]

Great Thread.

This one? http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx? ... m=30100385

[kensmith]

I was thinking the curved blade fan might be a little more quiet?

[Adam]

Hey Ken,

I changed my stock fan and thermostat switch two summers ago. My car was running between 190 and 200 and the fan would kick on for 30 seconds then turn off. It was cheap and easy to put in the aftermarket replacement.

I put in a 12" fan (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67012/) and a new thermostat controller to operate the fan (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16738/)

The car runs nice and cool and you can just barley hear the fan from the drivers seat.

Adam

[kensmith]

Hey Ken,

I changed my stock fan and thermostat switch two summers ago. My car was running between 190 and 200 and the fan would kick on for 30 seconds then turn off. It was cheap and easy to put in the aftermarket replacement.

I put in a 12" fan (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67012/) and a new thermostat controller to operate the fan (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16738/)

The car runs nice and cool and you can just barley hear the fan from the drivers seat.

Adam

Adam,

I ordered a 14" S blade fan but was thinking about using the stock thermostat. I did notice Mark is using a 14" fan and an external thermostat. My concern is if the fan comes on too early, the engine may never get up to full operating temp. I think the motor is designed to run about 190* or so. I was thinking a thermostat set to come on at 195* and off at 180* may be best??? Thoughts???


Also wondering where the original fan relay is located? If I use the stock thermostat, would I need to add a different relay, fuse, and route to the battery for power supply?

[spiderrey]

I replaced the stock fan with a spal fan that fit in the original mount. Did it because I just happen to have 2 new spal fans sitting around. It saved weight and takes up less space, its alot slimmer. Also on the 68 I gave my son, the water pump mounted fan went out. We installed an electric fan in front of the radiator that you cannot even see. Car never has any cooling issues.

[Adam]

Hey Ken,

My stock fan switch was faulty, so rather than drain the cooling system and replace the fan switch, I disconnected it and ran a new fan external fan switch and relay that connects directly to the alternator. The only time the fan really does anything is in stop and go traffic, at which point, I was happier to lower the temp just a touch. Even at that, the temp gauge normally reads around 190. One of the advantages of the external fan switch is bypassing the ignition by running the 12 volt from the alternator (or battery) with a 12 volt trigger to a switched lead.If your fan switch is good, you can splice in the new fan and call it a day. http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 72&p=81705

[kensmith]

I had read that post and I think I will also build a mounting bracket VS through the core plastic ties as I don't want to damage the core tubes. I also like the idea of a external thermostat you can just place the probe between the core fins at the inlet which will give an accurate temp reading as the coolant exits the motor and into the radiator before and cooling takes place. I will connect to the battery as a power source with a 40amp fuse and relay. Good stuff here, thanks guys!

[Adam]

Check out the link. I used these aluminum straps to mount the new electric fan to the original mounting points. It was cheap easy and solid without pulling on the core.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-32124/

Speaking of wiring, I also installed a Greg Smith headlight relay kit and upgraded my headlights to 7 inch halogen units to replace the sealed beams... wow what a difference. My Fiat now uses the same H4 bulbs as my 2006 Subaru.

Like the other post said, there is way too much current running across the ignition. By moving the lights and fan to the alternator via relays, I have yet a need to do the infamous brown wire surgery.

[kensmith]

Check out the link. I used these aluminum straps to mount the new electric fan to the original mounting points. It was cheap easy and solid without pulling on the core.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-32124/

Speaking of wiring, I also installed a Greg Smith headlight relay kit and upgraded my headlights to 7 inch halogen units to replace the sealed beams... wow what a difference. My Fiat now uses the same H4 bulbs as my 2006 Subaru.

Like the other post said, there is way too much current running across the ignition. By moving the lights and fan to the alternator via relays, I have yet a need to do the infamous brown wire surgery.

Adam,

Do you have a pic of the mounted fan with those straps? Thanks, Ken

[Adam]

Best I have right now... I still need to trim the ends of the aluminum straps. I bent them back for the meantime.

[kensmith]

Thanks Adam, I have some heavy gauge steel sheeting I think will work and make some brackets out of it. Aluminum kind of worries me as it appears too easy to bend. But looks like it may work. I'll have to think about it and look at how everything will fit as my fan I ordered is a 14" VS 12". Thanks again!

[htchevyii]

I don't like the plastic mounts thru the core, so I made some mounts out of stainless:

[kensmith]

I agree, and my thoughts are very close to you pics. Thanks!

[TVST*R]

Good idea. I will soon have the new Alum Rad installed.

I don't like the plastic mounts thru the core, so I made some mounts out of stainless: