OMG it runs! Sorta.

[macawlover70]

Wow, It started. I was not getting the power to the ecu side of the relay like you guys siad I should so I put the old relay in that I had opened up and maually switched the switch inside and got power to 88b and e. So then I found my noid light and tested for power to the injectors and walla. Tried to start in and nothing. So I went back to the beginning and made sure I was getting spark and gas and I was getting no gas. Out of gas. Put some gas in it again and first time I cranked it over it puttered. I tried a few more times and it ran good for about 3 seconds and stopped like it ran out of gas.
That's where I am at now. It seems as though I am loosing pressure in the fuel injector line because if I let the fuel pump run and try to start it it will start for a couple of seconds and die. I have a couple of small leaks in the fuel hose to #1 injector and from the cold start valve to the fuel rail. I am going to make sure everything is sealed up and try again. But wow! Talk about excited. I can't wait to test drive her. I still have a ways to go but, She runs!
Thanks to everyone who helped me. I still need a new relay cause the one I bought and my old one are not working and I don't think a piece of paper to hold the switch on is a great fix. Anyone know the best place to buy one?
Again Thanks. Robert

[rlux4]

Hey! Sounds like progress. (Of a sort.) It sounds like your only running on your cold start valve. If you're getting pulse at the injectors, it could be that the leaks in your fuel lines are allowing too much pressure loss. The injectors need about 30-35 lbs. at least to squirt. I'm glad to read this before I shipped off the stuff to you. I'll check my source out here for the current price on the Bosch dual relay and give you a call later.
Ron

[pope]

Glad to hear your are getting somewhere. The few seconds of start are on the cold start injector. Sounds like when it tries to switch over to main injectors, is when it stops.

With the key on, open the air flow sensor ( 1 ft. square box on passenger side fender wall), and push on the flap to see if you can keep the fuel pump energized. That is what controls the fuel pump after the engine starts.

Whoo hooo!!!!

edit: as I posted this, I see Ron beat me to it. He sure types fast for an old man.! LOL

[majicwrench]

Methinks if the old relay, and the one you bought, both don't work, a third relay is not gonna work any better. Test test test.
Keith

[So Cal Mark]

I'd suggest you quit buying used electrics on ebay

[launieg]

Fantastic, nothing like a bit of success to raise the spirits! I agree, sounds like cold start injector only. And, again, more testing required. Did you test/adjust the throttle position sensor yet?

Great advice from everyone, and good peseverance from your side Keep going. More excitement around the next corner...

[bwilson27]

I'd suggest you quit buying used electrics on ebay

Best advice given so far.

[macawlover70]

No doubt.
Anyway, Wish me luck all. Ron sent me a relay,ecu,fuel pressure tester, fuel pump, and resistor so I should be able to find out what the problem is, I Hope. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow and i sure hope I figure it out. Thanks all for the help.

Robert
My Project

[So Cal Mark]

where's the blanket and picnic basket?

[ga.spyder]

Glad to hear you are making progress.However...I have some bad news.You are gonna have a tough time pulling that camper with the Fiat,unless you can find a way to mount a 5th wheel!
Craig

[pope]

You turned the Spider into an electric car? Your gonna need a longer extension cord to drive around the block.

[rlux4]

We're all rooting for you Robert. I'm on pins and needles, waiting to hear what the problem is. Craig, I think he's parked there so he can sleep in the 5th wheel to be closer to the car and get to work on it quicker.
Ron

[macawlover70]

Man you guys are funny. Well, It appears it was the ECU because it runs, sorta. The fuel injectors are now working. It starts and runs. I can throttle it and it revs now. But for some reason it runs good for about ten seconds then acts like it runs out of gas. My battrey died and is charging so I have not had a chance to troubleshoot the problem yet but the ecu was definitly bad so I need to get one of those. When my battery charges up I'll try to see what the problem is. Any suggestions? It acts like something either shuts off, or it runs out of fuel in the rail. But I checked the pressure in the line and it is at 42 p.s.i. That's correct I believe. Or close enough. Anyway, I am getting there.
I guess while I am waiting for the battery to charge I could put in the fifth wheel hitch.

[rlux4]

I just got off the phone with Robert. We discussed the issue and I reminded him that the resistor in that range will only give the ECU the correct reading after the coolant is up to normal operating temperature. A good sensor on a cold engine will give the ECU a resistance reading in the range of 2-3,000 ohms with the ambient temps he's got down there in by God Texas. So, it appears that the problem is the temp sensor at this point. Just to verify that I'm giving him good info, I went out to my car and put a 280 ohm resistor in the connector and the results were what I expected, the car started, ran a few seconds and shut off. Now I have to go out to find the resistor that slipped out of my fingers and dropped down somewhere in the front of the engine.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

if the car runs for 10 secs, I'd suggest that the injectors either aren't pulsing or are stuck shut. Or the fuel pump is only working with the engine cranking. As for the resistor, the only "correct" reading is the one that corresponds to the coolant temperature. Using a resistor only tricks the ecu to change the injector pulse rate, it doesn't trigger the cold start injector.