Installing 32/36 Weber and New Intake on my 79

[Pescado]

Hey guys,

So I managed to move the intake cam one tooth and the results are starting with cyl#1….150,155,150,145.
Truthfully the car doesn’t seem to run any better than before, maybe I need to adjust things again either way happy to see those numbers again.

Found a new oil leak…have some oil that is bubbling past the dipstick plug so I checked the oil while there and I found it to be pretty dirty also I feel like it smells like gas has gotten mixed in. Perhaps this leak is occurring now because the oil is thinner due to the gas be mixed in?

I read that fuel can mix with oil if the car is running rich…I’m pretty sure my car has been running rich based on the spark plugs so this could be the cause…thoughts?

I’m going to change oil with new and try to run the car leaner to see how this affects things.

What’s the best procedure to test for rich/lean condition when using spark plugs as a guide? A video said to run the car at 2000rpm for 20min then check plugs.


New unused oil on the left.

Thanks for the help.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Do you by chance have a mechanical fuel pump? The diaphragm in those can go bad, with the result that fuel is pumped into the oil area of the engine.

Running rich can cause fuel to get mixed in with the oil, but it seems like that would take a while. Like weeks, or months, depending on how much you drive it.

To check spark plugs, I just find a quiet road and drive for 20 minutes between 2000 and 4000 rpm, then cut off the engine and coast to a stop, pull a plug and take a look. In a safe spot of course.

The good news is that your compression numbers are reasonable.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Thanks Bryan….Looks like an electric fuel pump. I have probably put 80 miles on the new oil.

[Pescado]

We have have been enjoying some great weather and with that some great drives north to some small towns. The car is running good and a pleasure to drive through some winding roads with great tree lines. Just have a few things to still get sorted and then plan to right a short report on the completion of these upgrades.

One thing I continue to struggle with is the fast idle…seems like no matter what I do with the screw nothing changes. When looking at the cam before starting and tapping the throttle it is certainly sitting on the thickest part of the cam but idle remains low…it’s as if it does nothing. I did notice that when the car warms up to 190 the idle is a bit higher than cold start idle but I think that’s normal.

Can anyone tell me how to set the fast idle? Or reset it to factory settings, I’ve turned the screw in so many different ways that I’ve lost track off what’s what.

[Anbele]

This might help…

https://youtu.be/kl3t3YKhz4s

[18Fiatsandcounting]

In addition to the video that Anbele suggested, here's how I would approach it. Back out the fast idle screw so it's not interfering with the "normal" idle. Get the engine totally warmed up, and adjust the "normal" idle speed and idle mixture screws for the smoothest idle at around 850 rpm.

After the normal idle is working, let the engine totally cool down. With the engine off, work the throttle by hand so that the choke "sets". This does two things: First, the choke plates should snap closed. Second, the fast idle screw should be resting on the highest part of the choke cam. Screw in the fast idle screw a bit so that the primary throttle valve opens up just slightly. If the choke plates don't snap closed, you may need to rotate the electric choke housing (the one with 3 screws around the outside) so that the plates do close.

Start the engine. The choke plates should open somewhat so that the plates are still about 2/3 closed. That's the function of the choke unloader (sometimes called choke pull off). The unloader opens the plates slightly so that the engine doesn't starve for air, and this unloader is often problematic.

With the engine running (and before it starts to warm up too much), adjust the fast idle screw for an idle around 1500 rpm or so. Don't adjust anything else. As the engine warms up, the choke plates should gradually open and the fast idle cam/screw should revert to the warm position. You may need to blip the throttle occasionally as it warms up.

Note that if you adjust the fast idle on a hot day, you may not need to adjust it for "full choke" as it doesn't need it. Best to do this when it's cold outside, but that's hard to do in June.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Thanks guys…finally got the fast idle working. I feel like we are in the home stretch and just about have things dialled in.

[Pescado]

Two steps back....now with the warmer weather and some spirited driving another issue has arose...here's what I've noticed, after a good run and car is really hot starting is difficult. I had a peek under the hood and heard bubbling coming from the carb and a pool of fuel sitting on top of the primary throttle plate. I read that High heat can cause fuel to expand and percolate, is this an issue that others have come across with this upgrade/delete. Perhaps I need to install a vent/hose at the grille where the air filter use to connect and extend it close to the carb for cooling? Also every now and then I smell coolant and have noticed the reservoir level raising when hot then dropping when cold...never did this before the work I did.

[bobplyler]

Also every now and then I smell coolant and have noticed the reservoir level raising when hot then dropping when cold...never did this before the work I did.

That's the way it's supposed to work. When hot, the pressure relief on the radiator cap releases some coolant. It goes into the tank. When it cools down, it sucks the coolant from the reservoir.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Also every now and then I smell coolant and have noticed the reservoir level raising when hot then dropping when cold...never did this before the work I did.

That's the way it's supposed to work. When hot, the pressure relief on the radiator cap releases some coolant. It goes into the tank. When it cools down, it sucks the coolant from the reservoir.

Exactly. Make sure your reservoir tank is about 2/3rds full when cold. Too full, and you run the risk of coolant coming out of the cap when the engine is really not. Too little coolant in the tank, and you might suck air back into the radiator as the engine cools down. Two-thirds seems to be the sweet spot.

As for hard starting after a hot run, it sounds like your engine might be getting flooded. Some engines do this, and the simple solution is to hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor as you try to start. Don't pump it. After a few seconds of cranking, the engine should start.

-Bryan

[Pescado]

Any thoughts on the fuel percolating?

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Any thoughts on the fuel percolating?

The only reason I can think that fuel would pool up on top of the throttle plate after the engine is shut off, is if there is pressure in the float bowl. I forget: is your float bowl sealed? Or do you have a vent of any sort? Charcoal canister?

-Bryan

[Pescado]

I don't think its vented its a new weber 32/36 and the charcoal canister is pretty much deleted...hoses are just breathing out to the atmosphere as I haven't been able to figure out what to do with them. Based on videos regarding this upgrade it doesn't seem to be to critical to have the canister connected but I've been wrong many times before...

The flooding issue pushed me to checking the carb float and I messed that up so bad...depending on how I adjusted the tabs the carb would either flood to the point where fuel would be pouring out or the adjustments would starve the car. I bent these tabs so many times that I completely lost my baseline setting....so ended up ordering a new float figuring that would just speed things along and the car would start and maybe just need some tuning as I also played with air/fuel and rpm screws. Not the case at all...car struggles to start.

the first video is the fuel boiling the second is how the car is acting now after the new float install. Thought I would mention this...in the video you'll see that I get no rpm or flashing light on my timing gun when on CYL#1 but I do get readings on 2 and 4....What is going on here??

Losing valuable summer days here.... frustration raising

https://youtube.com/shorts/CQnVUBao_9c?feature=share

https://youtu.be/HfHYQwzAW3w

Channel is 1979 Fiat Spider

Not sure why the links aren't working...the first video is found in "shorts" the second in "videos"

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Let's start with the ignition first and worry about the carb later. You're definitely not firing on all 4 cylinders, and the first thing that I would check is the plugs and that the plug wires are inserted all the way into the cap and onto the plug. Easy to have the rubber part connect but not the metal contact.

It also sound like you need to advance the ignition timing a bit more. At least for now. That would be turning the distributor body counterclockwise as you look at it. Just a bit.

When you rev the engine, does it still sound like it's missing on one or more cylinders, or does it "recover"?

-Bryan

[Pescado]

certainly sounds like all cylinders not firing evening when pressing the pedal...I tried replacing the plug wires with older ones that worked fine before...same results. I don't understand how I could be at this point if the car was running fine with the exception of the flooding carb...anyways I'll take any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this.