Took the Spider put for it's first run of the summer and found that the driver's side manual window wouldn't go down. Moved about an inch and then stoped dead and felt like the mechanism was jammed.
Took off the inner panel and found the window crank shaft has so much play it wouldn't mesh properly with the drum gear. Time for a replacement so ordered a new one.
Any tips or appropriate Italian curses for replacing this?
Doesn't appear that difficult...maybe?
Window regulator
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- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider 2000
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Re: Window regulator
Have bandaids.
1979 Fiat Spider (since new)
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
2005 Lincoln LS (the wife's car)
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier (daily driver)
1999 Honda Shadow VLX 600
1972 Grumman Traveller 5895L (long gone).
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- Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
- Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Re: Window regulator
Amazing, a guy on Mirafiori asked the exact same question, so here's what I told him!
With a new regulator, it should have a little temporary metal clip near the drum that keeps the cable from unwinding, but if it doesn't, you can wrap the two "ends" of the cable coming off the drum with a bit of masking tape or the like, once you have the cable wound correctly around the drum. Once the cable is installed, you remove the clip or the tape of course.
The other thing to remember is that the cables come off the drum in a sort of counterintuitive way. Coming off the bottom of the regulator drum, the cable routes towards the inside of the car, then up to the top front pulley near the window sill, then down to the lower front pulley on the bracket, then back up diagonally to the top rear pulley, then down to the lower rear pulley on the bracket, then frontwards past the adjustable pulley, then to the top of the drum on the outside of the other segment of the cable (where it started).
Before starting, loosen the adjustable pulley and push it towards the rear of the car as far as it will go Also, under the door frame, loosen the two bolts that hold that bottom bracket. Not fully loose, but just enough so that the bracket can move up and down a bit. Makes the cable easier to install.
After the cable is routed, it's just a matter of adjustment to getting the cable adjusted. While it might seem like the cable should be really taut, I have found it works best with a bit of slack. Not enough to jump off a pulley of course.
Also, the cable will have to routed through the two bolt/nut "clamps" that hold the cable to the bottom of the window, and how the cable is positioned on those clamps relative to each other will determine whether the window goes up and down in the channel as it should, or tends to get cocked.
There's a lot more in terms of adjustment, but in the interest of time, I'll leave it at that. Let me know if you want pointers on anything else.
Hope this makes sense...!
-Bryan
With a new regulator, it should have a little temporary metal clip near the drum that keeps the cable from unwinding, but if it doesn't, you can wrap the two "ends" of the cable coming off the drum with a bit of masking tape or the like, once you have the cable wound correctly around the drum. Once the cable is installed, you remove the clip or the tape of course.
The other thing to remember is that the cables come off the drum in a sort of counterintuitive way. Coming off the bottom of the regulator drum, the cable routes towards the inside of the car, then up to the top front pulley near the window sill, then down to the lower front pulley on the bracket, then back up diagonally to the top rear pulley, then down to the lower rear pulley on the bracket, then frontwards past the adjustable pulley, then to the top of the drum on the outside of the other segment of the cable (where it started).
Before starting, loosen the adjustable pulley and push it towards the rear of the car as far as it will go Also, under the door frame, loosen the two bolts that hold that bottom bracket. Not fully loose, but just enough so that the bracket can move up and down a bit. Makes the cable easier to install.
After the cable is routed, it's just a matter of adjustment to getting the cable adjusted. While it might seem like the cable should be really taut, I have found it works best with a bit of slack. Not enough to jump off a pulley of course.
Also, the cable will have to routed through the two bolt/nut "clamps" that hold the cable to the bottom of the window, and how the cable is positioned on those clamps relative to each other will determine whether the window goes up and down in the channel as it should, or tends to get cocked.
There's a lot more in terms of adjustment, but in the interest of time, I'll leave it at that. Let me know if you want pointers on anything else.
Hope this makes sense...!
-Bryan
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- Patron 2022
- Posts: 265
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- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Maine
Re: Window regulator
Well sometimes a double post will get another spin on the subject
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- Posts: 3799
- Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1969 and 1971 124 spiders
- Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Re: Window regulator
I totally agree, and I'm not at all against getting more eyes on the problem. Just giving you a hard time!PaulC wrote:Well sometimes a double post will get another spin on the subject
-Bryan
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- Patron 2022
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- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Maine
Re: Window regulator
Good thing my skin is a bit thicker than the "modern" Miata Spiders.
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- Patron 2022
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- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider 2000
- Location: Maine
Re: Window regulator
For those who may have missed this on the other site...
Success! Regulator has been installed and window works better than ever!
But not without a few snags ...
First up (or down) was that the window was stuck up so I couldn't access the two cable attachment points on the glass and I needed a way to control the movement of the glass so I could cut the cables.
That was solved with two large suction cups with handles used to move glass sheets (or remove false floor tiles). These allowed me to position the glass low enough to reach the two attachment clamps and afterwards cut the cables rather than messing with unthreading them.
Next up was to remove the regulator mechanism that was attached with three M10 nuts, easy eh?
Not a chance. Two nuts came off easily but the third just spun the stud it was attached to.
The end was too small to hold with a channel lock but a dremel cutoff wheel took care of that.
Then it was a relatively simple matter to run the cables according to the diagram but it needed the bracket on the bottom two pulleys to be loose to provide enough slack to reach the adjustable pulley. Loosened those easily enough since the interior nuts are welded to the bracket so no wrench required.
Then on to loosen up the adjustable pulley and you guessed it, the hex head screw sheared off in the pulley arrrgh!
So now its drill and tap for a new bolt and finally wrestle the pulley back in.
Now to attach the cable clamps on the glass itself.
(Who thought it was a good idea to have to use a wrench on one side of the glass to hold the nut while turning the screw on the other side instead of welding the nut to the bracket ? )
Anyhow, all back together and working better than it ever did. Before it felt like it was skipping gears as you wound the window down not surprising considering the atrocious condition of the original.
Success! Regulator has been installed and window works better than ever!
But not without a few snags ...
First up (or down) was that the window was stuck up so I couldn't access the two cable attachment points on the glass and I needed a way to control the movement of the glass so I could cut the cables.
That was solved with two large suction cups with handles used to move glass sheets (or remove false floor tiles). These allowed me to position the glass low enough to reach the two attachment clamps and afterwards cut the cables rather than messing with unthreading them.
Next up was to remove the regulator mechanism that was attached with three M10 nuts, easy eh?
Not a chance. Two nuts came off easily but the third just spun the stud it was attached to.
The end was too small to hold with a channel lock but a dremel cutoff wheel took care of that.
Then it was a relatively simple matter to run the cables according to the diagram but it needed the bracket on the bottom two pulleys to be loose to provide enough slack to reach the adjustable pulley. Loosened those easily enough since the interior nuts are welded to the bracket so no wrench required.
Then on to loosen up the adjustable pulley and you guessed it, the hex head screw sheared off in the pulley arrrgh!
So now its drill and tap for a new bolt and finally wrestle the pulley back in.
Now to attach the cable clamps on the glass itself.
(Who thought it was a good idea to have to use a wrench on one side of the glass to hold the nut while turning the screw on the other side instead of welding the nut to the bracket ? )
Anyhow, all back together and working better than it ever did. Before it felt like it was skipping gears as you wound the window down not surprising considering the atrocious condition of the original.