So as part of my engine build I've decided to convert my '76 1800 to electronic ignition from points, which debatably are just fine I know.
My question is which way to go? My coil is likely original, so it's getting replaced regardless. So that leaves three options that are all about $150. There are some other options that are more like $500 like the 123 programmable distributor, but that's too much money. Current cap and wires are fine.
Fast XR3000
Vicks says this is slightly better than their electronic distributor option, but I'm not really loving the idea of bolting the black box somewhere in there engine bay. It replaces the points with an optical trigger.
Vicks Electronic Distributor
Electronic dizzy like the later models I'm assuming. This is fine except you have to bolt a funky brake pad looking control module to a self sourced chunk of aluminum heat sink somewhere in the engine bay.
Pertrionix 9MR-LS1 Ignitor 2
This seems like the easiest way, just a module that you swap out the points with, similar to the Fast system, but magnetic. I'm not sure how they get away without a control module like the other two systems need unless it's built in?
Does anyone have experience with this conversion and have a recommendation one way or the other on which system to use?
The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
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- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider 1800
Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
1) Never heard of Fast. Could be okay, could be total junk.jon8christine wrote:So as part of my engine build I've decided to convert my '76 1800 to electronic ignition from points, which debatably are just fine I know.
My question is which way to go? My coil is likely original, so it's getting replaced regardless. So that leaves three options that are all about $150. There are some other options that are more like $500 like the 123 programmable distributor, but that's too much money. Current cap and wires are fine.
Fast XR3000
Vicks says this is slightly better than their electronic distributor option, but I'm not really loving the idea of bolting the black box somewhere in there engine bay. It replaces the points with an optical trigger.
Vicks Electronic Distributor
Electronic dizzy like the later models I'm assuming. This is fine except you have to bolt a funky brake pad looking control module to a self sourced chunk of aluminum heat sink somewhere in the engine bay.
Pertrionix 9MR-LS1 Ignitor 2
This seems like the easiest way, just a module that you swap out the points with, similar to the Fast system, but magnetic. I'm not sure how they get away without a control module like the other two systems need unless it's built in?
Does anyone have experience with this conversion and have a recommendation one way or the other on which system to use?
2) This is the way to go. I sourced an aluminum heatsink from a spare pc power supply. Looks great.
3) It relies solely on the vacuum/centrifugal advance. Pertronix is cheaply made from Chinesium. Their products suck.
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Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
Thanks for the input. Do you have a photo of your setup?
- blazingspider
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- Your car is a: 1977 fiat spider
- Location: Oakridge, Oregon
Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
Here's my experience:
I've run them all or attempted to run them all. My 77 had the dual point set up. It was OK except for the inherent drawbacks of a points system. I then converted that set up to single points just for the sake of simplicity.
After an engine rebuild, I decided to try out a different solution. At the time FAST was CRANE CAMS. I purchased their XR700 which is pretty much the same unit as the XR3000 but the 3000 has a few more bells and whistles. The 700 uses the optical trigger and the control module just like the 3000. I mounted the control module on the passenger fender wall in the engine compartment.
I noted a bit of an increase in performance using that system but unfortunately during the 6 years or so that I used that set up, the optical trigger failed twice and had to be replaced. The optical trigger also moved out of position on the adjusting arm once and that resulted in a no start condition too. When the control module failed, reliabilty became a concern, at least for me, and I decided to try other solutions.
Next up was the Petronix Igniter LS-1. Very easy to install. Started right up, idled very well but once there was any kind of a load on the enigne it would start to run rough and the car had no power. I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the problem with Pertronix. Every parameter I checked was to spec yet the problem persisted. They sent me another unit and it did the same thing. Their conclusion was that my distributor was worn out. I never did understand how their claim of worn mechanicals prevented the unit from working properly but I know a lot of owners have converted to that system without any issues but that just wasn't my experience.
4 years ago I decided to purchase the electronic distributor set up used on the later model cars and I've been very happy with it. Out of all the different set ups I've used over the years this one gets my vote!
I've run them all or attempted to run them all. My 77 had the dual point set up. It was OK except for the inherent drawbacks of a points system. I then converted that set up to single points just for the sake of simplicity.
After an engine rebuild, I decided to try out a different solution. At the time FAST was CRANE CAMS. I purchased their XR700 which is pretty much the same unit as the XR3000 but the 3000 has a few more bells and whistles. The 700 uses the optical trigger and the control module just like the 3000. I mounted the control module on the passenger fender wall in the engine compartment.
I noted a bit of an increase in performance using that system but unfortunately during the 6 years or so that I used that set up, the optical trigger failed twice and had to be replaced. The optical trigger also moved out of position on the adjusting arm once and that resulted in a no start condition too. When the control module failed, reliabilty became a concern, at least for me, and I decided to try other solutions.
Next up was the Petronix Igniter LS-1. Very easy to install. Started right up, idled very well but once there was any kind of a load on the enigne it would start to run rough and the car had no power. I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the problem with Pertronix. Every parameter I checked was to spec yet the problem persisted. They sent me another unit and it did the same thing. Their conclusion was that my distributor was worn out. I never did understand how their claim of worn mechanicals prevented the unit from working properly but I know a lot of owners have converted to that system without any issues but that just wasn't my experience.
4 years ago I decided to purchase the electronic distributor set up used on the later model cars and I've been very happy with it. Out of all the different set ups I've used over the years this one gets my vote!
- aj81spider
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Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
I think you could probably source the coil mounting bracket from a late car. They had the control modules and the coil mounting bracket had a heat sink built in. Something like this (although this one is pretty pricey - I'm sure you could get a used one pretty cheaply).Electronic dizzy like the later models I'm assuming. This is fine except you have to bolt a funky brake pad looking control module to a self sourced chunk of aluminum heat sink somewhere in the engine bay.
https://autoricambi.us/coil-module-and- ... y-1979-85/
A.J.
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)
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Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
Cool thanks for the replies, sounds like a new electronic distributor is the way to go.
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Re: The Great Electronic Ignition Conversion?
jon8christine wrote:Thanks for the input. Do you have a photo of your setup?
Got a fair bit of engine cosmetics to tidy up, but you get the idea.