Rear Brakes

[Frog2Spider]

I'm having a problem with getting my rear brakes to work the way I think they should. I've got a new master, new calipers, new pads and new a compensation valve. The calipers have self-bleeder screws and have been bled with the wieght off the wheels, lifted from the differential. I can't 'lock-up' the wheels when braking, and it feels like all my braking is coming from the front.
Is it advisable to remove the compensation valve, and just re-plumb the lines with a 3 way brass junction! Anyone done this, and what were/are the results?
Thanks,
Dave

[DieselSpider]

When the rear axle is lifted by the differential and someone steps on the brake pedal do the rear brakes activate solidly?

Do you have a good solid feel to the brake pedal when the engine is not running? If not then there still is air in the system.

Is the rear bumper on the car? If not that could throw the compensator off making the back of the car ride too high.

Were the caliper slides and pad slides lubricated with high temperature silicone brake lubricant and the slide shims polished up nice and clean before reinstalling them. The steel shims need to be clean and smooth along with all the surfaces they contact and lubricated with brake lube or you will have diminished braking all around.

Was the master cylinder bench bled before installing or vacuum bled after installing it. If not there could still be air in the master cylinder which would reduce braking.

Were all the rubber brake hoses replaced? If not some could have restrictions that could reduce brake efficiency or may have rotted and be expanding which could also reduce brace efficiency and allow the hoses to burst.

[Frog2Spider]

This is the first thing I was going to do.

I have not felt the pedal without the car running.

Yes, rear bumper is on the car.

Yes

Yes, bench bled.

New brake lines

Can the compensator is removed?

Thanks DieselSpider

[So Cal Mark]

the compensator can be removed, I sell a bypass hose to make the removal very easy

[wizard124]

I recall ther being some adjustment in the housing and how the valve bolts to it. You can try fiddling with that or remove the actuating bar altogether to see how that affects the rear brakes.
I cant think of a time my rears have ever locked up. I have a new valve installed. Maybe it is working as designed?

[Frog2Spider]

Thanks Mark,
Any comments on what I can expect? Advantages/disadvantages etc?

Thanks, appreciate your advise.

Dave.

[Frog2Spider]

Never mind Mark. I've ordered the by-pass hose.

Thanks,
Dave.

[DieselSpider]

You really do not want the rear brakes locking up and that is what the compensator is designed to do. This helps prevent the very light rear end of the Spider from spinning around and passing the front during hard braking. I am a firm believer in making things work as originally designed. A rear load sensing compensator set up correctly to me was the next best thing to having anti-lock brakes.

There is also the possibility that you installed pads with friction material that is too hard and do not grip as well as softer ones would.