Water Temp/Oil Pressure/Oli Spec.

[gandyrail]

OK something bugs me about using the diesel oils
I understand the zinc in the oil but what about the cat wont the zinc kill the cat
I would rather be replacing cats than engine parts but has anyone any issues with plugging the cat?

[Frog2Spider]

You don't ever want to 'plug' a converter, however it is the lesser of two evils. A cat is a lot cheaper than a engine rebuild. Plus, after the engine rebuild, you still should use a zinc rich oil.

Just say'n,
Dave.

[RRoller123]

very interesting data here in these various sites.

The second and third reference give a lot of info on actual Zinc and Phosphorus content, as well as actual Oil Film Strength test data.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T

http://bestmotoroil.weebly.com/diesel-o ... sHUIL2oOjk

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archive/i ... 10657.html

[vdesigner99]

Folk I am continuing this tread as I am concerned about my oil pressure/flow.
I have an 84 Azzura and notice that my pressure gauge reads close to zero when I am idling at a stop sign.
When I first start her up it reads ~40-50PSI, if I rev her up it does climb a bit but once hot she drops down to an uncomfortable low number.
I'm using Valvoline synthetic blend of 10-30. I have contributed the low reading to the fact that the car is hot and the oil viscosity probably lowered and thus the pressure. My fiat has 120k miles and I am concerned that maybe the oil pump is on its last legs.
My questions are, is my operation pressure normal consider all the circumstances? Also is there an external method to test the oil pump for correct flow/pressure? I am recently concerned because I suddenly hear a clanging somewhere within the engine. I don't what to destroy the engine because of oil starvation.
All thoughts will be appreciated.

Victor

[Frog2Spider]

I'm not a mechanic, but this is what I'd do.
First dump the synthetic oil. Replace it with 'dino' 10/40. If your engine is ready for a rebuild, you will likely start seeing blue smoke from the exhaust. (Synthetic does show)
Next, after noting your dash gauges' readings at idle, 2,000 rpm and 4,000 rpm, temporarily replace the oil sending unit with an manual style and connect to it a manual oil pressure gauge. Compare the readings. The manual guage will give you the actuate reading.
A compression test will be your next test, but dump the synthetic oil and don't use 'synthetic anything' in the car. This includes break fluid, rear gear oil and transmission oil. Don't even use synthetic grease!

Hope it all turns out to be a faulty gauge.

Dave.

[DUCeditor]

Folk I am continuing this tread as I am concerned about my oil pressure/flow.
I have an 84 Azzura and notice that my pressure gauge reads close to zero when I am idling at a stop sign.
When I first start her up it reads ~40-50PSI, if I rev her up it does climb a bit but once hot she drops down to an uncomfortable low number.

When I first got my `77 Spider back in `88 I expressed the same concern to the mechanic who then did the work on her. His answer was succinct: "If the gauge was correct she have self-destructed by now."

He then went on to tell me that "they all read like that" and that as long as the red low-pressure warning light went off and stayed off when she started the pressure was fine.

The oil's viscosity is higher when the engine is cool, thus the higher numbers and the slow drop as she warms.

Now 28 years later I suppose I can say "he was right." She read that way consistently until a year ago when the gauge stopped reading at all. Now I just rely on the light (which has its own sensor).

-don

[Frog2Spider]

Yes, these gauges can be inaccurate, but still shouldn't be exnored. I'd suggest it wiser to replace a faulty gauge, rather than solely rely on a warning lite.
I checked my dash gauge with a SW manual gauge that I temporary connected, so as to test and compare.
At idle 'cold' I'm pushing 50 psi. Falls to 30 when hot. Underway, I'm at 50 -55 psi. This with 10/40.
I use a quart of oil every 900-1,000 miles, which I've been told is about what they used when new. Car has 45K.

A warning light says, 'you have a problem'. A reasonably accurate gauge can help keep you from a problem.

Dave.

[aj81spider]

It may not be the gauge. My pressure read low. I pulled the block the sensors mount to off the car, cleaned it out and replaced the sensor. Since then it's read reasonable numbers both when idling and at higher rpm.

Also check your owner's manual. My 74 calls for 15W-40.

[Exit98]

The oil pressure reading can depend a lot on your sender. Mine ran at close to 0 for a long time. I changed the sender and cleaned out all the passages and now it runs just below the 40 on the white marked numbers. It does vary some as you drive.

AJ, just like mine. Do you remember how you got the damn thing off? I can't get a wrench in there.

I know I have good pressure as I don't leak or burn a drop and the engine pulls fine. But it would sure be nice to see the gauge make the point.

[aj81spider]

Mine's a 74, so the alternator is on the other side. I seem to remember it was pretty clear and I didn't have too much trouble getting a socket on the bolts.

Here are a couple of pictures of the block without it and the assembly removed:

[vdesigner99]

Thanks to all for the great replies. I know these are helpful to all.
Frog2Spider mentions Dino oil? is that Sinclair oil? not sure I can get that here locally. I May use Rotella as I see lots of threads about that.
My first step is to check the oil sending unit, though mine is 2 years old from autoricambi. Maybe pull the oil block as was suggested and clean over. I will probably pick up a mechanical oil gauge and hoses. Anybody have a recommendation about this? I can either get a temp one or a permanent dash gauge. If I get the permanent I would like to add as an auxiliary under the dash Thus have both. Is this available from Autozone, Napa etc? I note from aj81spider's picture with the oil block, apart from the oil sending what other sensor is still attached? is that an oil switch? Mine appears to be unattached to any wire, just floating? Maybe why my trunk switch doesn't open the trunk? Can some one tell me which lead is that connected to?

Again thanks for the replies.
Victor

[Exit98]

[quote="aj81spider"]Mine's a 74, so the alternator is on the other side. I seem to remember it was pretty clear and I didn't have too much trouble getting a socket on the bolts.

Thanks AJ. Mine's a 76, but I don't think it looks like yours. I'll take a look, and a picture, and report back.

As I recall mine needs a 17 mm open end. Probably cut in half.

[Exit98]

AJ,

My dad used to say "eyes that see not". I know it's biblical but he was referring to not seeing a solution even when its stareing you in the face. Anyway, I was so focused on unscrewing the sensor from within the engine compartment that I never considered that I could just remove the whole assembly. Duh!

Thanks for opening my eyes.

[Frog2Spider]

Yo vdesigner99

'Dino' oil refers to the oil made from crude ground oil. Regular oil, NOT synthetic

No need for 2 oil pressure gauges. Switch to a manual, if you like, but no sense having both.

To install (permanent or temporary, for comparing) you first need to remove the stock sending unit from the engine block. You will then need a metric to standard bushing and the other fittings to connect compression fitting to 1/4" nylon or copper tubbing. Another compression fitting to connect to the gauge.

Dave.

[vdesigner99]

Status so far from 84 Pininfarina. I changes the oil sending unit to the original one that came with the car when purchased.
I changes oil to 10-30w non synthetic. I also purchased a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The brand is Equus. Now it gets interesting.
I cannot locate a metric to SAE reducer for the nylon capillary tube. Ive gone to all the big chain hardware stores and a couple of local plumbing shops. The car takes a M14 but don't know thread and the pressure gauge came with a M10 compression fitting. What a bear, has anybody done this before and if so do you remember the reducer sizes? Time to hit McMaster-Carr catalog.
Well at lease my pressure Warning LED lights up then off after start, but still not trunk release.

Cheers.
Victor