Brake Fluid Clarification

[Frog2Spider]

I just serviced my front calipers and installed new pads & installed new calipers, pads and compensater on the rear.
I used Dot 3 brake fluid, as stated on the reservoir cap.
Now I have come across information that states to NOT use synthetic.
While the label states that it exceeds Federal FMVSS 166, it is synthetic.

Have I got a problem?

Thanks,
Dave.

[Rambo]

I just serviced my front calipers and installed new pads & installed new calipers, pads and compensater on the rear.
I used Dot 3 brake fluid, as stated on the reservoir cap.
Now I have come across information that states to NOT use synthetic.
While the label states that it exceeds Federal FMVSS 166, it is synthetic.

Have I got a problem?

Thanks,
Dave.

Im not sure of the exact reason but i have always heard NOT to use synthetic. I was told to use this fluid by other members http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Origin ... RSCYB8A96S i have used this for four months without issues.

[124JOE]

i have had no problems 5 yrs
i think the full synthetic attracts water that will corrode the calipers

[Nitrate]

You will have no problem with DOT 3. The majority of brake fluid is synthetic, but there are many different types of synthetic additives. DOT 3 is all together different than DOT 5 which is full synthetic. RB

[nibbes123]

Hi Dave I use the Motul Dot 5.1 brake fluid it is awesome. Mark Allison sells it on his web store. This fluid is not synthetic, the Dot 5 is.

Nick

[Frog2Spider]

Thanks guys. Seems there are a lot of options, but I'm going with the ' I'll be OK ' theory.

Dave.

[DieselSpider]

Some of the rubber parts in the Spiders brake system tend to dissolve and turn to putty (especially NOS or those made to exact original specs) with a full synthetic brake fluid so you roll the dice if you use it. The master cylinder and most of the brake hoses in mine were not compatible and were plugged after a year with full synthetic in them.

[RRoller123]

I think DOT 4 is ok too?

[rridge]

Neither glycol ester nor silicone grow on trees nor are they pumped out of the ground. Non-synthetic mineral oil and caster bean oil have not been used as brake fluid in at least 50 years. Most brake fluids are glycol-based and vary only in seal swelling additives and boiling point. Picking the proper brake fluid is difficult because the way the products are labeled and sold. Here's a good background article that will help you decode the techno-speak of the oil company marketers: http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/ ... page1.html

Richard

[DieselSpider]

Neither glycol ester nor silicone grow on trees nor are they pumped out of the ground. Non-synthetic mineral oil and caster bean oil have not been used as brake fluid in at least 50 years. Most brake fluids are glycol-based and vary only in seal swelling additives and boiling point. Picking the proper brake fluid is difficult because the way the products are labeled and sold. Here's a good background article that will help you decode the techno-speak of the oil company marketers: http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/ ... page1.html

Richard

The swell characteristics of the DOT4 Full Synthetic that Tire Kingdom used is what got mine. Swelled the rubber hoses completely shut and turned the cups/seals in the new IAP master cylinder to mush. Locally rebuilt calipers and new proportioning valve were the only things that survived.

[RRoller123]

Great article; thanks for sharing that.

The part about changing over from one to another interested me. Sticking with fresh DOT-3.

[DieselSpider]

Great article; thanks for sharing that.

The part about changing over from one to another interested me. Sticking with fresh DOT-3.

Yes only switch after doing a full rebuild with all new parts not just by flushing an existing system and never just top off with different fluid.

My system was devastated by the mixed cocktail of different brands and formulations.