Cold Start Valve wiring

[mrH20]

Good Evening
When I purchased my 81 Spider, a previous owner had spliced into the wiring leading to the cold start valve. He had a switch mounted on the dash (where one of the power window switches was). Would anyone know why this might have been done? Would it be the by-pass the cold start valve? I'm still working on the cosmetics of the car, but will soon begin the engine tuning.
Thank you for your help.
Geo.

[So Cal Mark]

you wouldn't have to wire in a switch to bypass it, only to activate it. I would bet the thermotime switch is bad and rather than spend the bucks to replace it the PO just wired in a toggle switch. The thermotime switch is under the intake manifold and fairly difficult to reach. And be aware if you remove it, all of the coolant will pour out

[mrH20]

Hi Mark,

Thank you for the input. Is there any test I can do to check the Thermotime switch or should I just replace it?

Thanks,
Geo.

[So Cal Mark]

yes it can be tested. The ideal situation would be to obtain the FI Troubleshooting manual. I think Brad Artique has it posted on his website. He's posted some messages lately concerning updates to his wiring diagrams with a link to his site

[bradartigue]

Download the 80-82 diagrams, the cold start valve is in there.

http://www.artigue.com/fiat

It operates for about 8 seconds during very cold starts.

[socaltino]

Recently I replaced both the sensor that is under the intake manifold and the plug that goes to it. The sensor although still good, had the crown (for lack of a better word) broken, so that the plug would constantly come off. I tried several fixes before going for broke and replacing them both. Sorry for the history. A quick and easy way to see if the cold start valve is working, is to remove the cold start valve, but reconnect it to the fuel line and the electrical plug. Then making sure that the sensor under the manifold is properly plugged in. Place the cold start valve into a can (coffee can works great) and have someone crank the engine. You should see a fine mist of gas shoot out of the cold start valve. NOTE: THE ENGINE SHOULD BE COLD. If you dont see gas then it's a 50/50 chance that the valve is faulty or the sensor is faulty. If you remove the sensor and you put a meter on it, you should have no more than 30 resistance. Since I'm not an electrician, I don't know what the 30 stands for, all I know is that my previous mechanic tested the old sensor I replaced and told me it has 30? resistance so it was still good. Hope this helps.

[mrH20]

Good Evening Gentlemen,
Sorry to come back on this issue so late, but its been crazy lately. Anyway, I just ordered a new Thermotine switch and would like to replace it, where exactly is it? I know it is under the manifold, but where? Is there a simple way to get at it?
Once I have replaced it I'm going to do the test suggested for the cold start valve. The car runs super once it warms up, but it is a bear to get started. Thank you so much for your help.
Cheers,
Geo.

[mrH20]

Well I found the Thermotine switch, and there are no wires leading to it. Someone must have found it defective, disconnected it and wired a switch on the dash to bypass it. I have a new thermotine switch coming this week, how do I rewire it? I guess I'll need a plug and some wires, any idea where to get them? Do I just splice into the cold start valve (as per the wiring diagrams)? Hopefully the cold start valve isn't defective too.
Man, if it isn't one thing, it's another, gotta love the spider.
Anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Geo.

[So Cal Mark]

most any parts store will carry Bosch FI pigtails, or go out to pick a part and get one from a BMW. They have really cool connectors with easy to remove spring retainers. As for wiring it, just follow the wiring diagram. The thermotime switch goes into the coolant passage, so drain the system first

[mrH20]

Thanks for your help Mark.