Floor Sound/Insulation/Liner Question

[donerehart]

How do you deal with the drain plugs when putting the floor sound deadening material in? Do you just cover them? If not, how have you all dealt with putting drain plugs in? Getting ready for interior restoration...
Thanks,
Don

[4uall]

Re: 1978 rolling restoration

Postby 4uall on Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:38 pm
hey doc when the weather is warmer (currently -31C toady) I will be applying the POR15, ez cool and new carpeting as well. My question is you mentioned waterproof with drain holes? Are they plugged? Did you POR15 the holes? If so did you put something in them to stop the POR15 from filling them?

Curious

Jay

Re: 1978 rolling restoration

Postby DocGraphics on Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:18 pm
I did my patches then gave everything 2 coats of the POR 15 then laid down a rubber membrane type sealer over that THEN cut the "V" shaped drain holes back thru it all. Circled in pic.
There are 6 or so on each side. I made sure they were bent down atleast enough that the POR 15 wouldn't seal them, about 1/8" to drain easily without being bent open so far that they would let road water in.

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad22 ... hic1-1.jpg

Oh...for it only to be warm enough to work on/drive mine, we havn't even seen above freezing for a high in a couple weeks.

Tax season is getting close & the new parts list is getting LONG...can't wait!
Don Raugust - Coeur d'Alene Id.
1978 Fiat 124 Spider "Fiona" - Burgundy/Tan
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/ad22 ... 0Pictures/
1978 Ford Courier - Red/Red Oxide
1997 Dodge Intrepied (Fiat?) - pearl green


Re: 1978 rolling restoration

Postby DocGraphics on Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:15 pm
I sealed up EVERYTHING that wasn't a factory drain hole.
The factory drain holes are a "V" cut in the floor pointing towards the back of the car, then bent down & then bent back so that the opening is to the rear that water can drain out yet the leading edge is where the metal is bent down thus blocking water from splashing in from the front.

Here's a quick diagram

http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad22 ... hole-1.jpg

As for water getting in from the drain holes I choose not to drive in the rain, unless caught in it (only once) HaHa
but the way the factory cut & bent the drain holes seems like it would not allow much in.

The membrane I used was "protecto-wrap" from Home Depot, it's made to seal around windows & doors in home construction.
It's a 1/16" thick super sticky rubber membrane w/ a plastic backing, comes in a 4" X 50' roll for like $14.
Was enough to do both footwells with left overs, I made it go up all the sides a couple inches too for a "bathtub" effect.
Don Raugust - Coeur d'Alene Id.
1978 Fiat 124 Spider "Fiona" - Burgundy/Tan
http://s918.photobucket.com/albums/ad22 ... 0Pictures/
1978 Ford Courier - Red/Red Oxide
1997 Dodge Intrepied (Fiat?) - pearl green

[Divers]

I covered and sealed everything! There will be no driving in the rain.

[ga.spyder]

Even with the drain holes sealed and covered ,driving in the rain is no big deal...just put the top up!

[narfire]

I covered and sealed everything! There will be no driving in the rain.

Same. Put the drain plugs back in and sealed them with something permanent, same with the V slots..sealed up for ever.
If water somehow gets in there from above, I'll pull the carpet and liner and mop it up.

[donerehart]

Thanks everyone for taking time to post...now is decision time. When has anyone ever had an instance where the drain ports were used? I'm just curious...
Thanks,
Don

[Exit98]

Well I got started on the floor job this Sunday. Carpets are out, most of the jute type stuff and some of the tar gunk, particularly on the passenger side. The tar on the drivers side floor is pretty intact, although cracked; the stuff on the floor under the back seat is fine so I don't see any reason to mess with it. I'll just cover it with whatever sound/heat material I decide on. Suggestions welcome.

The rust isn't nearly as bad as it might look in the pictures. It's all surface rust, heaviest on the passenger side floor and the driver's side foot well under the pedals. Floors are solid. Started wire wheeling the pass side and it looks fine.

It's originally a California car till I brought it East two years ago. Absolutely rust free (except here).

No idea about carpets yet. I don't like all the little pieces, never did. NJ George is looking a a custom molded carpet install in his, I might wait and see what his looks like.

[donerehart]

Thanks for the pictures Doug. Very helpful to see. Are you planning on covering the drain holes, or using them? Some do and some don't per the above posts...
Thanks,
Don

[124JOE]

if you keep it dry then you can seal it up
if it leaks at all when wet then you want them open
these cars dont have alot for vent except the top
and humidity could cause mold growth

[Exit98]

Don, I know I replied last night but now its not here. Probably didn't hit the right button.

The little V slits don't make a lot of sense to me. I think I'll just cover them over and maybe hammer them closed. Our Spiders live a pretty relaxed life now in semi-retirement. I'm sure it will see an occasional rain shower now and then but I don't expect to be splashing through deep puddles any time soon.

Joe, I see your point about venting. But if I put down insulation foil side down that will block the vents. Yeah I can cut the slits but it just seems counter intuitive to me. Anyway, in my garage with the top down there's plenty of ventilation and little humitiy.

[124ADDHE]

Since they always rust out, when i got my last shell (81') the floor had just surface rust,no holes, so i cleaned up the driver and passanger floors and then coated with a layer of fiberglass for permenant interior water resistance! I then was able to confidently use contact adhesive to secure my insulation (5/8" blue camping-mat foam) and then carpet (Home despot corn-row) to the floor; Works great!

[dantye]

Thanks everyone for taking time to post...now is decision time. When has anyone ever had an instance where the drain ports were used? I'm just curious...
Thanks,
Don

The plug near the tunnel in the front of the passenger side floor is needed if you don't have a pump and need to gravity feed a refill of transmission oil, using a piece of fuel line or other rubber hose, into the transmission fill hole. I also left the V slots open and even cut matching Vs in the foil backed polly padding. Reason? With months of winter storage in an unheated garage, you can get periods of condensation inside the floor under certain temperature, humidity and sunlight conditions. These holes promote air circulation and help such moisture drain and/or dry out, and should not create a problem when driving unless you drive through fairly deep standing water, (a NO-NO for numerous other reasons.) There is a reason they put them there at the factory. Of course, to minimize condensation in cold winter storage, ALL windows should be open, top up, and your car cover must "breathe."

The little water that gets through the V slots from splashing or cleaning underneath the car will dry out in the sun if you have porous poly felt padding that breathes rather than a non-breathing foam, or jute, which is organic and almost impossible to dry out, and can host all kinds of microscopic critters.

[4uall]

Wanted to add these photos If this helps anyone

This is a factory drain hole


Factory drain hole by itzebtze, on Flickr

and these are factory holes to allow access to hard to reach areas for filling fluids etc (or so I have been told)


Drain holes? by itzebtze, on Flickr