stereo, what do you have and like?

[Daniel]

Bazooka Tubes rock ! a lot of boom for the buck but JL Audio Woofers are some of the best sounding
Car Woofers I've heard personally ! W6's are nice I wouldn't mind using some in my next system
build . The Menphis brand makes real good sounding woofers as well less then JL cost wise and close
to the sound quality i've been using them for a long time . One 12" i made the box to Spec 2 Qubic
Foot 4" Ported tube with a 250 Watt Amp runing at 4 ohms in my Home System would make my DVD
Player skip sometimes while playing low notes .

Im going to make Crossovers for the Kappas i have the Componet speakers so i thought i would try to
take the sound quality to the next level that way not sure how much of an improvment to expect cause
i'm not willing to experiment on parts just making what i know works in home speakers .

Maybe one day we will see a Spider in a Sound Off Contest you never know ?

Take care


Daniel

[wachuko]

I have twin 40 idfs, does that count? They play any song I want right up to the red line.

Ted

That is the same sound system I plan to install in mine... some additiona kick from Mark's headers and exhaust system. Volume wired to the gas pedal.

Anyway, back to normal programming.

[digitech]

Well Kensmith, let me see if I can confuse you further .
First off, I don't see anything wrong with the system you're talking about. It's no good for serious listening but I don't think you intended it as such. It will be a fine, casual get-some-sound-in-the-car system.
Secondly, like everything else, speakers can be much more complicated than they first appear. It all depends on how important they are to you and how far you want to go. When I was a kid, I use to throw whatever driver I had gotten my hands on into whatever size box that would sit in the space I had; I was happy that it played, let alone sound good. However, now I know better, heck, now I know enough to be dangerous
One specification of audio drivers is their impedance, i.e. 4 ohm, 8 ohm, etc. That's a whole can of worms in itself but suffice to say, generally, home audio drivers are 8 ohm and car audio are 4 ohms. There are exceptions and reasons for them but this is generally the case. But in order to put a driver in a box (or even determine if it needs a box) you need to consider much more. There are a whole host of specifications associated with a driver that are more or less determined by it's construction/design; a few of these will help you determine if it needs a box, what size and type of box and what you can expect to achieve with it when done. These specs are very seldom provided with most commonly sold car audio drivers - they can be nearly impossible to find because the driver manufacturer simply doesn't provide them. I have software/equipment I use in order to closely ESTIMATE the driver's specs. The box/driver configuration will determine what type/how much sound absorbtion is needed which is intended to absorb some of the drivers' backwave and reflection.
There are 4 basic configurations or uses a driver can be made for and sometimes the driver can straddle the lines as well. It might be intended for a bass reflex (ported), closed box, aperiodic or infinite baffle design. Subwoofers notwithstanding, most car audio drivers are intended to be used as infinite baffle, which is without a box. That's not to say it can't be used in a box but you need to look at the specs to determine that without just sticking it in one and listening.
The most needed specs are QTS, VAS, FS and XMAX; there are plenty of others but with these and the aforementioned software, you can get a good idea as to what is the best fit and what you can expect, performance wise. GENERALLY, higher QTS drivers are intended for closed box/infinite baffle installations and lower QTS indicate a need for a ported enclosure. Higher VAS values dictate a larger box is needed while lower values indicate a smaller enclosure. XMAX in conjuction with software can tell you all about the expected performance and power handling. FS can give an indication of how low the driver can go. You will notice the use of words like indication and generally - that's because there are no absolutes and plenty of exceptions - you really need to model with software first to get a look at what's going on. And infinite baffle means no box, just the driver mounted in such a way as to seperate the drivers' rearwave from the front.
And then there is the needed crossover which will have to been tailored to the driver (drivers) as well as the installation. Two choices here, active and passive crossovers. Most car audio speakers include passive crossovers when sold as a set or pair. They can be as simple as a high pass capacitor or as involved as multiple inductors/capcitors/resistors which can compensate for individual driver response, impedance correction and level setting. They are complicated and difficult to design, especially without software. The software I use can even take into account the environment the completed speaker will be used in (home or auto) and take advantage of it. After all that, in a more serious install, using an active crossover is the way to go - don't have to worry about driver impedance, power losses and much more exact frequency setting.
So, when buying prepackaged speakers (for those of you not into all the above), pay attention to FS, QTS if it's provided and how good/complex the included passive crossover is. Also, the higher the sensitivity rating, the less power you will need to provide and the louder they'll play.
Hope this helps, like I said, it is much more complex than it first appears. If you have any other questions, just ask and I'll see if I can answer them. I compromised on a few aspects of my own install because I wanted the speakers to be low key but still have good sound. I have 5 inch Vifa midbasses / Audax tweeters along with properly designed crossovers in the usual frnt. kickpanels with some sound absorbtion. The sub I have yet to design.

[kensmith]

That's a lot of information to swallow and kind of why I put together a cheap stereo for the Fiat. Now, in my daily driver Sliverado my son built the system which I think is great. I have about $2K into it and love driving the Silverado just to listen to the stereo.

[Daniel]

Nicely explained digitech you did a good job i think ! what box design software are you using I'ved used some
for years as well but not into car audio any more on the most part i did a Lotus a few years ago and posted
some photos on here somewhere not many people seems to be into audio stuff on fs but i get it i'm into the
Car part as well and dig Fiats .

I have plans to write a book on audio and video sometime soon been gathering data for that and using my
experience to help people understand home theater and how to improve audio quality without spending loads
of money .

take care

Daniel

[digitech]

I use Bassbox and X-over pro from Harris Tech along with an older version of the WT3 driver tester. Between the 3, I can choose drivers from the built-in library or input my own, simulate different environmnets, play what-if with different box designs as well as different cross-over topologies/slopes and generate the needed driver specs. I can then construct the needed enclosure (if one IS needed) and then test/adjust it to get the desired bass response.

Back to our beloved Spider, Fiat didn't make it easy to install any type of sub - the easiest/best place is right where the battery is on the later cars! Like all convertibles, you're not really going to be able to install a top notch audio system in a Spider, there's just too much engine, tire, roadway and wind noise to overcome and too many installation compromises to make. Off-the-shelf bass systems like the Bazooka and others are a good solution to get adequate bass in the car and as long as you pay attention to FS, Sensitivity and driver construction materials, you can find good off-the-shelf coaxs or even separates that will work well for the midbass/highs. I prefer the separates as it allows a bit of flexibility in driver placement to achieve a decent soundstage.

If I can ever get my car back on the road, I'll take some time and post pics showing what I chose to do with mine.

[opus10583]

Wanting some tunes, but knowing the limits, I've gone this route: Sony DSX-S100 iPod controller receiver ($110 on sale), Polk DB521 marine rated co-axials ($45 open box) with Boom Mat neoprene speaker cozies ($10), 6" Bazooka sub ($50 eBay), Dual XPA2100 amp for the Bazooka ($60), hoping I can drive the fronts from the head amp and the sub from the line-outs. If I don't like the Bazooka I'll run the Polks from the amp.

It's all still in boxes while I continue to wait for what the "previous owner" calls "surface rust" to be repaired, but for <$300 I don't think I went too far wrong.

I have three questions.

The car, 1978 CS1, has "period correct" Jensen 4inch speakers in the kick panels (above the map pockets): Will I have to cut any metal behind the kick panels to get the larger 5.25inch Polks in?

Any tricks/mousetraps in removing the kick panels, expanding the holes if need be?

The Polks have fittingly spider-ish grills, but they're painted in a rather cheesy and sadly ubiquitous wan silver: What sort of paint should I use to subdue them in black (unsure of the plastic material and solvent compatibility)?

TIA,
Mark

[jimmycakes401]

Who has rear speakers AND still has a back seat? What are peoples suggestions? It doesn't seem like there is enough room behind the side panels back there. I'd like to have four speakers just to spread the wealth. I'm going to go with four identical speakers and probably keep the stock size since I don't want to cut any metal out of the front.

[Adam]

I have rear speakers and a back seat. I made speaker boxes that I mounted to the plastic sidewalls. The enclosures house a pair of 5.25" and are vinyl wrapped to match the rear seat. This leaves enough room in the rear seat for one large dog or two small - medium dogs.

[Kingme2]

Who has rear speakers AND still has a back seat? What are peoples suggestions? It doesn't seem like there is enough room behind the side panels back there. I'd like to have four speakers just to spread the wealth. I'm going to go with four identical speakers and probably keep the stock size since I don't want to cut any metal out of the front.

I cut holes in the plastic covers that cover the side hardware for the top when down,and then mounted my (goes outside to check size) 5.25" Alpine's in them. Mine was extra choosey on locating the right spot, as the hinged roof mechanism location, as well as the roll bars location all come into play... When the roof is down, the hinged part misses by a full 1/4"!!

I beefed up the plastic using MDF on the backside to strengthen the plastic, as it was already severely compromised by the notch for the roll bar. I remember also making an MDF ring to mount to the front side, to keep the magnet away from the hinge structure. Works great, lots of sound.

I'll be removing it soon to:
1) wrap the plastic in black leather to complete the finished look
2) add more structure via spray-foam, etc to increase the rigidity.

I still have a nice, empty back seat, no "speaker box" to hide/move in areas I'm feeling unsafe about, good, hidden sound I hear clearly at 140kph.

[dantye]

I am thinking of buying a low buck cd player with HD radio. I saw this one: JVC KD HDR40 on sale at Amazon.com for $89.00. I thought it looked good for the price. Also thinking of some small 4" speakers for the kick panels. Maybe Polk Audio DXi400 coaxial. What do you think?

Have you seen this thread?:
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... ss#p109858

[Adam]

Most manufacturers offer head units that lack any motor drive (tape or CD) The savings in depth is 1 to 2 inches. My Sony head unit, with CD, is snug but fits just fine. I had to reach under the dash to make sure that the bundle of wires ran beside the deck rather than behind it. When adding speakers, just ,make sure that you mount them to something solid (MDF or metal) otherwise they tend to buzz; speakers also perform better when enclosed. Like Kingme2 said, the more discrete the mounting job, the less likely you are to have your roof cut and your sound system swiped.

[dantye]

One consideration is that, with a mechless receiver, you can rip about 300 CDs to mp3 or wma files onto JUST ONE postage stamp-size 16GB SD card. This would cover a lot of folks' entire CD collection, whereas hauling 300 CDs around in a Fiat could prove to be problematic.

[124ADDHE]

What about the tweeters? I find that it is voice that I loose the most @ roadspeed with the top down and I been taking notice that most newer luxury cars all have tweeters located in and around the "no-draft" window area of our spiders - any advice on how this could/couldnt benefit our cars?

[jimmycakes401]

One consideration is that, with a mechless receiver, you can rip about 300 CDs to mp3 or wma files onto JUST ONE postage stamp-size 16GB SD card. This would cover a lot of folks' entire CD collection, whereas hauling 300 CDs around in a Fiat could prove to be problematic.

Who has a stereo that has great navigation for MP3? My buddy has an MP3 compatible head unit. I plugged both and iPod and a flash drive to it, but it didn't let you scroll through your albums. Just played random or in order! So you'd need a flash drive for every album. Which is silly. LOL!