1980 spider Restoration phase 2

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DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Mon Mar 13, 2017 10:35 pm

Thanks Neksonj

Mark
It is a marker/indicator light (bmw)

Gatorman
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2016 11:17 pm
Your car is a: 1982 Spider
Location: Merritt Island, FL

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby Gatorman » Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:18 pm

Fantastic job Drummond! I can't imagine how many hours you have in this project. Love the new color!

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:20 pm

Thanks Gatorman. I have enjoyed nearly every moment of it!

To all People who shape their own brake lines, My Heroes!! :) What an exercise in patience, 3D ability and frustration. All I can say is that I am glad I practiced on the old lines first!!
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From a 2 way valve to a no way valve? This what it looked like :( Isn't it just supposed to be vapors in this line from the gas tank to the charcoal canister?
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six inches on either side of the valve were totally blocked with the gunk
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http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l57 ... G_0121.jpg[/IMG]
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Mick124
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Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 3:08 am
Your car is a: 1967 Fiat 124 Spider

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby Mick124 » Mon Mar 20, 2017 2:58 am

Nice work Drummond. Love the color.

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:03 am

Thanks for the nice comments Mick124!

Rear Axle Brake Line rehab
Started with this
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Finished with this
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Chasing threads
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Newly formed brake lines
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Next, "installation"!!

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Kiwispider
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Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
Location: Auckland NZ

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby Kiwispider » Fri Mar 31, 2017 7:49 pm

Hi Drummond, assuming you still have your drive shaft out? I'm swapping out my auto gearbox for a 5 speed so need to get my front drive shaft lengthened - any chance you could measure yours so I know how long to make it?

Also when you refurbed your sliding yoke did you pull it apart? Could it/should it be done? I have second hand one that came with the 5 speed box, don't know if it is different to the one on the automatic.

Thanks
Cheers

Trevor

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:45 pm

Hi Trevor

Here are the driveshaft measurements
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Driveshaft was totally disassembled re-greased Spiders, yoke & new center support. If unknown condition, check play/condition at yoke/spline side

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Sun Apr 02, 2017 12:24 am

One of the small tedious things to do when renovating is thread chasing :D takes hours but saves a lot of time/hassle when assembling
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Fuel pump, Filter & Lines installed today
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Also started to install rear axle & suspension
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aj81spider
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Your car is a: 1974 Fiat 124 Spider
Location: Chelmsford, MA

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby aj81spider » Sun Apr 02, 2017 8:11 am

I continue to be amazed by your work. I love this thread and the fact that you are restoring and not replacing most things - and that they keep turning out fantastic.

I saw you respond on another thread to someone that something "was no big deal and just required a little care." I didn't reply, but wanted to warn him that's like Michelangelo telling someone that painting church ceilings was no big deal!
A.J.

1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)

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azruss
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Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby azruss » Sun Apr 02, 2017 8:06 pm

I see you are using a thread tap to chase the threads. I would recommend using a roll tap as the method you are using now is removing material and weakening the threads. A roll tap will reform the metal without removing any, making for a stronger thread.

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:48 pm

Hi aj81 spider. Thank you for your kind comments!

Hi Azruss. No metal is being removed, Just paint and surface rust. I was of the opinion that a roll tap was for forming not thread chasing?

klweimer
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Your car is a: 1982 Spider 2000
Location: Arvada, Colorado

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby klweimer » Mon Apr 03, 2017 7:37 am

I would agree with Drummond on this, but maybe I've never used roll taps? I try to use bottoming taps for thread chasing, as they have full threads almost all the way to the end, useful for blind holes.
Kirk

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azruss
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Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby azruss » Mon Apr 03, 2017 4:07 pm

Yes, you can use a roll tap to chase threads. The effectiveness depends a lot of the condition of the threads. If the threads have been damaged by over use (bottom A-arm studs), stripped, or cross threaded, a roll tap is a great choice. If the threads are in great shape and just need crud removed, then a cutting tap is a better choice.
FYI: A cutting tap can produce a higher percent thread depending on the size of the drill used for the hole. For instance, a 3/8x16 thread, drilled accurately with a "P" drill will produce a 64% thread. Drilled with a 5/16" drill produces a 77% thread. Roll taps normally aim for a 70% thread and is considered a stronger thread as it cold rolls the metal making it more dense than cutting. At least, that's what the experts say.

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Mon Apr 03, 2017 11:04 pm

Hi Azruss

Thank you! for your alternative information. Certainly something to investigate more.
Rolled taps or cut threads, Juries still out on what is stronger. Rolled taps is definitely more efficient manufacturing wise.

I had to replace the bottom A arm bolts on the cross member, as they were all cross threaded and collar worn. It seems a poor design, as the cross member does not appear to have any stabilizing tabs to stop any fore & aft movement. It appears to rely on the tightness of the bolts to prevent this. What do you think?

DRUMMOND
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Your car is a: Fiat Spyder 2000 1980 Pininfarina

Re: 1980 spider Restoration phase 2

Postby DRUMMOND » Sun Apr 16, 2017 12:13 am

Finished installing rear suspension & brakes
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It all looks too good to get dirty :x
One thing to remember, you can't take enough photos when you are restoring you car, especially over a long period of time, you forget how it goes back together :evil:


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